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Monday, January 27, 2014

A Kid Again

1/27/14
 
It’s 7:10 in the morning.  The sun has shot through my barred windows and the tiny window shade slits.  I’ve showered, eaten, and buttoned my collared shirt all the way to the top.  My satchel over my shoulder, I checked my carabineer for the third time to make sure I have my three house keys for the various outside gates.  Herminia stops me and looks me in the eye with the most sincere smile I’ve seen her have since we met, and says in Spanish, “Have a wonderful first day of classes, Robert, good luck!”  I wished her a good day too, and buzzed the outside gate.  While walking up the street, I was overcome by a feeling I hadn’t felt in a long time, some sense of pride and readiness that I just don’t have when I’m at Pitzer.  It took me a while to realize just what the feeling was, but then it became clear: My “mother” wished me a good first day of classes.  Simple, concise, but a luxury I haven’t had since I was a teenager.  Living with a family again, has really rekindled a lot of emotion and comfort that I haven’t felt while living alone or with a roommate; it’s one of the most wonderful hidden treats that I never knew how to truly explain while casting my left hand out on my Office of Admission tours.




            The day before, Sunday, I woke up late.  Considering the fact that I had gone to bed at around 9pm the previous evening, waking up at 9am was an incredible amount of sleep for me, and quite late to wake up.  I immediately felt guilty; I had told Sam that I would walk over to her house and show her around town before the ICADS lunch at noon, but realized that there was little time to do so.  After showering and a cup of tea, my host father Rafael and I found Samantha’s house, and talked to her mom for a little while; Sam wasn’t home, she was told to wait in the park for us.  By 11ish, we’d found each other, and still quite guilty, I was determined to make it up to her, so I suggested that she go to lunch at ICADS with us Pitzer folk; in addition, she’d get to see the town a bit and learn the way to walk to school.  Thankfully she was happy to do so, and we all took the ~30ish minute walk to the school.  One of the interesting differences between here and the US, and indeed in Ghana, is the lack of pedestrian rights and infrastructure. Sidewalks are plagued with “gringo traps” AKA pitfalls or general disheveled concrete.  One has to look farrrrrr down the streets in all directions, even at stop signs, for cars, for at best the sign means “Yield to other cars, if you feel like it.”

 
            Unfortunately for Sam and my conscience, once we arrived at ICADS, our director promptly brushed Sam aside and told her that the lunch was a special Pitzer only meal, and that she couldn’t eat with us.  So, she walked back with Cora’s host mother.  I quickly changed moods, however, with a delicious lunch at an Italian restaurant and conversation with the Pitzer folks.  After walking back to Curribadt, Sam rejoined Lauren, Sarah, and I, and we walked all around town, exploring streets and shops.  While checking out at the super market (I got some prime new shampoo and ginger), a small, older woman noticed Sarah absentmindedly swaying to the beat of the nearly inaudible dance music playing overhead in the market.  In Spanish, she said, “You gringos have no idea how to dance, here, check me out!” She swayed and “danced,” although her age certainly had an effect on her movement. “Hey, come to my house, I’ll give you lessons, we can dance to whatever music you’d like!” she exclaimed.  We politely said maybe, and headed outside to meet the rest of the group, but the woman followed and really persisted asking us to dance with her.  After a quick check-in in English, we all agreed, and walked a few blocks to her house.  She exclaimed with pride, “Here, this is the auto shop…and this door, this is my house!” pointing to a grey sheet metal door.  Needless to say, all of us were waiting for the other to exclaim that we had to go.  No one peeped, and we all entered the doorway, the woman locking the door behind us.  All of us uneasy, she turned on the stereo, and handed us each a heavy CD case, a good 300 CDs in total.  For the next hour, the tension dissolved, and Rosario(the older woman) showed everyone how to dance to the different styles of music.  It was awkward and silly, especially given the fact that a young man in his mid 30s passed by a few times with small comments and no official introduction. 

            The following day, Monday the 27th, was the first official day of school.  The logistics are unremarkable – introductions of around 15 students from across the country (and one from Kathmandu, Nepal!), a Spanish placement oral exam, and an afternoon of program overviews, safety information, and interactions with the other students.  We have three girls named Katie and two-named Sarah, and the schools represented vary from Chapman, University of Michigan, University of Massachusetts, Grinnell, and one student on a gap year, attending Middlebury in the fall. 
            As the group of Pitzer students and Sam walked back from ICADS together after a somewhat exhausting 8 hours of class, I felt the same eerie feeling that I was just a young schoolboy again.  When I was younger, I really did envy the children I’d see in cartoons who exercised a degree of autonomy, walking to and from school with their school books in their backpacks and their mothers cooking dinner when they arrived at home.  True, there is a healthy degree of idealization, and the “grass is always greener,” but just like my time in Ghana, I feel like this life outside the US is more simple, a bit more calm, and to me, romantic.  We’ll see how, as the workload increases, my idea of walking for almost two hours a day to and from school fights against my naïveté, but for now I’m quite content.


A note on blogging for the next five weeks – the program I’m enrolled in is quite time consuming, and although I’d like to write every night, I’ll most likely only blog on the weekends.  In addition, I’ll be heading to Nicaragua for a week the Saturday after next, and will be inaccessible for a little while.  Until next time!

Saturday, January 25, 2014

That kiss thing


1/25/14

“Hola, mucho gusto,” Hermimina sighed, averting eye contact while moving her push cart full of vegetables.  She leaned into me and tilted her head.  “Hola, me llamo Robert,” I stammered.  She didn’t move.  Aha! Here’s where I do the kiss the cheek thing! I thought.  I leaned in, and being a good foot taller than her, managed to plant my lips above her hear on her hair and made a slight kissy noise.  The gesture brought her back into motion, and with a quick “Permiso…” she wheeled the cart over the front step into the doorway.  My new Mom…I wonder if I nailed the kiss thing right, or maybe I wasn’t supposed to do that?  Rafael, her husband of 48 years, smiled, and followed her inside.  This quiet couple and their tiny home will be my new family.  I grinned and shut the three gates behind me.
           
            Today marks the first day of my four-month long trip to Costa Rica.  I’ll go over the logistics, which seemed interesting given my previous travel experience.  After a short flight from SFOàLAX, and a sleepless (literally no sleep) red-eye to San Jose, Lauren Phipps, Cora Regas, Samantha Abelove, and I made our way to Migracion in the airport.  We were told to lie and say that we were tourists heading to Nicaragua in two weeks to avoid the student visa bureaucracy; a move not altogether well though out, but if it worked would seem perfect in retrospect.  No problems, thank goodness.  Lauren and I exchanged some money (no doubt at a bad rate) while waiting for bags, and shortly thereafter were picked up by a sweet elderly man named Fernando.  Fernando dove us to our host family houses one by one, I secretly wishing I were last so I could see where everyone else lived.  The drive brought back memories of the dozens of bus rides in Quito; graffiti on the roadside walls, a near equal numbers of motorcycles and compact cars, and unofficial competitions of who’s merengue beat was louder and THUMP-y-er.  Sam was dropped off first on the corner of El Calle Principal – I don’t know her too well, but I believe she looked a little shell shocked as Fernando stopped the car; we all did.  All of the houses were covered head to toe with thick iron bars; where wasn’t an open window, door, or even wall on any neighboring house either.  Luckily, her host mother immediately disarmed the tension with a big hello, letting her little white dog (with a pink bow tie) out to greet Sam followed by a bear hug. We drove for another two minutes past an ornate church, and Lauren was next, her family greeting her with equal warmth.  I was getting excited.  We drove for a few more minutes down two blocks and the car stopped, and Fernando signaled that this was Cora’s house.  As she disembarked and embraced her family, my high began to sink, and I realized I was next, waiting to meet a family who I hoped loved and accepted me, and that provided me with a safe, centrally located place to live; if the criteria didn’t fit, I had no choice but to accept it. 
Fernando, who had remained silent except for the name calling thus far, flipped a switch with the ladies out of the car and chatted me up, complimenting me on my Spanish, giving me recommendations for which volcanoes to visit, and telling me that I’d be happy with my family.  We took a meandering route, seeming to pass down a series of narrow one-way streets and heading out of town.  When we finally arrived, I eagerly jumped out of the car, all three bags in hand, and waited to see who would open the door.  Rafael, a gray haired, well-built 70-year-old man came out of the double-gated enclosure.  He said nothing, only smiled shyly, and welcomed me into his house.  I was shown my room next to the kitchen, an 8’x10’ tiled bedroom with barred windows, a desk, and a small, neatly made bed.  I tried to talk him up, and half-expected the rest of the family to burst out and greet me enthusiastically.  No, Rafael simply looked at me calmly as he’d done several dozen times before, and told me to put my clothes away.  Five minutes later, Hermimia arrived from the marked, and I greeted her hoping to arouse some sort of excitement that I saw on the faces of the previous three families when my friends arrived.  Not unfriendly, just used to the routine, I surmised.  After putting away my things, I collapsed for a few hours, reclaiming two hours of sleep that the airplane had stolen, then talked to the couple for a while before lunch.  Rafael and Hermimia are peaceful, good-natured host parents.  They lack the excitement that I possess, understanding that the change in their family is one that appears like clockwork, not as something that they’ll tell dozens of friends back at Pizer.
In the afternoon, Rafael accompanied me to find a sim card for my phone, and we tried to retrace the route to the other students’ houses.  I tout that I have a decent sense of direction, and managed to find the two houses that were close to mine where Lauren and Cora lived, just a 15-minute walk away.  I’m told that I’ll be walking to school, and finding their houses means that if I get up a good 20 minutes earlier, I can walk with company.  On our return journey, we paused for a few minutes to watch a funeral at the church.  I’ve been asked what religion I was, and told them I don’t have one, but would be willing to accompany them on their trip to the Sunday mass tomorrow.  Rafael didn’t ask me to stop, he just halted and stared, making a cross motion with his worn fingers.  We returned to the house, and I took another nap and had dinner in front of the Futbol game on TV.
Traveling in Costa Rica is unlike anything I’ve ever experienced.  I’ve been telling myself that, if I can handle heading to Ghana by myself, moving as I please, adjusting to Costa Rica would be a breeze.  Yet, there are several unanticipated adjustments that I’ve had to make very quickly.  Understandably, the language transition was abrupt and fast paced – aside from a quick visit to Lauren’s house, I haven’t spoken English since 8 in the morning.  My family understands that I can comprehend what they’re saying, and just have trouble remembering specific words here and there, so they abandoned the prospect of speaking slowly and using hand motions after the initial welcome.  After just a few hours here, I feel like I’ve spent an eternity here, and that aside from giving me directions, my family treats me like the student they’ve had here for decades with a new outfit on. 
I’ve had moments of panic, of forgetting words, and of course missing folks back home, but am still unable to properly digest how I should be reacting to the world that surrounds me.  So far, I haven’t; I’ve been polite, easygoing, and if anything just a little curious.  I think I’ll try to adopt Hermimia’s demeanor, and just play my stay in this house as nothing out of the ordinary.  I’m part of this family now, will soon be busy to the gills with work, and will just continue to live life with a peaceful, charming demeanor.


*** Edit, pictures to come, the internet is really spotty here so I just wanted to post this before it cut out again!***

Friday, January 24, 2014

Ya me voy!


January 24, 14

“Are you ready?”
“Getting excited?”
“Nervous, I bet?”
            It’s difficult to tell when polite conversation inquiries spill over to genuine interest.  I’ve been giving the normal responses – “Well, I haven’t packed yet…Sure I’m excited…Nah, it’ll be fine.” Fine?Fine is the sort of dismissive language we absent-mindedly toss around to get someone to stop nagging with the equally brain-dead polite questioning, but as I strap on my hiking boots that can’t fit in my packed bags, I’ve got to wonder, “Is ‘fine’ all I’m really expecting?
"Travel Light, Travel Quick!

            I’ve had several days like today in my recent past – the last day at home, or in America for that matter.  Seven months ago or so, I repeated the same exercise of last minute cancelling monthly online subscriptions, and stuffing little knick-knacks into visibly overstuffed luggage.  Today, I head out on a four-month trip to Costa Rica to study, among other things, Spanish, Costa Rican History, and Tropical Rainforest Ecology.  It’s a trip I’ve planned to take since the fall of 2011, something I highlight when giving college admission tours, and an all-too-recurrent topic of conversation at family gatherings.  Yet, I’ve honestly never toyed with my “pre-departure reflections and thoughts to how-serious-is-this-trip” ratio so much, tipping the scales to devoting almost no critical analysis to the imminent journey. 
            Although I’ve had ample time to “psych myself out” this winter break, I’ve filled the free space with a myriad of odd and unpleasant activities, such as an unexpectedly difficult tonsillectomy and days of scholarship applications.  In addition, I’ve decompressed from a difficult semester with a trip to Los Angeles and Santa Cruz just to see the people I love.  Of course, all along the way I’ve been asked the same half-dozen study abroad inquiries about my preparedness, excitement, anxiety, ect.
            As I lace up my hiking boots over my orange-tiger-stripped socks (can’t leave the country without some orange clothing, right?  I also have a bow tie!), I believe it’s finally hit me that in 24 hours I’ll be in somewhat of a different world.  I’ll be speaking, reading, and thinking in Spanish, adjusting to living with a family of 5 (ages, 12, 40s, and 70s), and coming to terms with the fact that I’ll actually have to go back to doing academic work.  Looking back on my date of departure for Ghana, however, I can say I’m in a similar place, although a bit harrier (no shaved head this go around!)
           
“Who knows if I’m ready, I’ll just have to wait and see.”
“Excited?  That’s an unfair question; I have no honest idea of what lies ahead.”
“No, not nervous; an adventure awaits, and the unknown will be what I make of it.”

I’ll update you with a decently interesting chronicle of my travels in the coming week, but for now, all I can say for sure is that, like I left for Ghana in May, I’m thrilled to put a foot forward and step into the unknown.


There seems to be a pattern...