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Tuesday, October 20, 2015

My Semi-Charmed Changwon Life

안녕하세요! Cheers from Changwon.

Since my last update, I’ve:

-->Stumbled through just under 80 hours teaching English
-->Become local locomotion savvy between buses, bikeshares, and a new whip
-->Shot my weekend at a sleepover SAT composition retreat
-->Blown minds with my mad chop-stick skills

Let’s start with my contractual duties – teaching English. 

During the course of my senior year, you may have been (un)lucky enough to hear me share my post grad plans.  Better captured as a cluster of buzzwords, I’ve been telling friends, admission guests, and interviewers that I hope to eventually peruse an MBA and/or and MEM (masters in environmental management) with the dream career of corporate sustainability consulting.  Those brave and curious enough to wave away this lofty cloud of progressive jargon (or pressed me before I was obliged as a senior to have an impressive elevator speech prepared about my future) might know that I’ve always considered teaching high school a potential career option.  I’d daydreamt of teaching sociology, photography, and environmental science at a small high school, shoving the prospect in my mind for something trendier and more prestigious. 

I caught myself juxtaposing this fantasy with my starkly different reality – teaching a different subject in a different country to very different students.  I teach between 1- 6 classes, Monday-Friday at Changwon Science High School. There are 174 students who spend M-F studying and living at the school, often getting around 5-6 hours of sleep a night.  Ten 50 minute periods constitute the bulk of my class load, eight classes divided among 160 first and second year students, another two classes divided among the small senior class of 14.  Then there’s a daily conversation class (haha sorry lunch “hour”), two English professor classes, and one class for non-English professors.  The change in between is captured by lesson planning, private tutoring a student who’d lived for 4 years in Chicago, preparing students for international science competitions (I’ve got two in Italy this week!), and proofreading tests and magazine articles.  My apologies for all the numbers – osmosis of the omnipresent STEM mindset is taking place. 

Aptly named, the STEM focus at Changwon Science High School means English is at the bottom of everyone’s totem pole.   The slant for science and insignificant role of English has a drastic effect on my role as the native language teacher.

The Positives:
·  (near) free reign over my curriculum – I’m teaching a semester long course on improving levels of happiness specifically tailored for HS students in Korea!
·  I’m textbook free.
·  There’s little institutional pressure to achieve specific grammatical ELRs.
·  A longer winter break – Who would want an ENGLISH winter camp at a science high school?!

The Negatives:
·  Mixed levels.  English classes are determined by age, not ability – I have one table where a student who lived in Canada for two years sits across the student who routinely yells at me, “TEACHER I LOVE YOU….BUT TEACHER I CAN’T ENGLISH”
·  English class is seen as a break from their otherwise science-packed schedule. This affects everything from motivation to sleeping in class. 
·  Requests for supplies, testing days off, etc. are heard last from the English department. 
·   Tl;dr – English serves a novel role for most everyone besides the English teachers. 

Everything from classroom management to the overarching benefit (or lack thereof) I bring to the students is specifically tailored to the unusual scholastic situation of my 174 future science leaders.  It’s clear that I might never grasp the dedication and pressure Korean students (and certainly those on science tracks) have to study, I’m slowly identifying the clues.  Some are more obvious than others.  During the first week, co teacher and were discussing health trends in Korea and the US.  I offered my thoughts on “standing desk” trend in the US – something to increase blood flow and calories burned.  I was later led to the corridor of standing desks outside the study hall where students who fall asleep while studying are instructed to stand and continue working past 1am.  One English teacher in her late 40s has a head salted with grey hair.  So does the boy in the front row of my Thursday morning class.  I’m often torn between making sure each student speaks up alone at least once per class and making sure the students have a mental break – a moment to focus on sleep or their emotions rather than the homework they try to sneak beneath their journals. 

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In order to better grasp the degree and nature of the educational pressures my students face, I know that I’ll have to develop a better understanding of what happens in classrooms other than my own.  How do other teachers behave, and how do they shape the lives of their students?  To explore this question, I’ve adopted a “Yes Man” persona.   “Want to play volleyball weekly with the other teachers?”  “How about spending the weekend making SAT questions for the upcoming practice test?” “I think it would be a good idea to get to know the other teachers over soju and beer after class.”  Yes! Sure!  내!

Understanding I’m underqualified to assess the pedagogical efficacy of the Korean Educational system – let alone become an agent in it – I jumped at the opportunity to serve as the native English reviewer for the Gyeongsangnam Province practice SAT conference.  The two-day event was held at Royal Hotel in Bugok 부곡 – a former vacation destination famous for natural hot springs. While initial investment in the town led to the construction of dozens of motels, developers overestimated the town’s potential popularity.  The Bugok hotel infrastructure reflected a boom frozen decades ago.  Given the town’s history, inferable financial struggles, and relative isolation, the location was perfect to house the influx of test-prepping teachers. 

The 13 hour English section preparation that took place Saturday was simply fascinating.  Teachers are only allowed to draw passages from a nationalized “Educational Broadcasting System” (EBS) textbook.  The theory behind publishing the material that 70% of the test would be composed of ahead of time is to alleviate the financial burden on families to send their children to afterschool tutoring in English.  Of course, I would argue that students would then focus on memorization rather than comprehension, and the actual goals for testing are brought into question.  After spending the morning reviewing selected passages and corresponding test questions that teachers had previously prepared, the group of ten or so English teachers gathered together to express their concerns and critiques.  I had too many to count.  While I only had stylistic critiques on some passages, other passages were painful and downright confusing to read.  Riddled with subject-verb disagreements and unnecessary gerunds, trudging through such erroneous passages was in itself a trial in skimming for contextualization. 

With the test bleeding from my edits, I joined the circle of teachers to discuss the minefield.  Although we were all taught English, the meeting was held in Korean.  After five minutes, I was asked to give my opinion for the first question.  I delivered my diagnosis – One subject verb agreement, an awkward phrase, and a run on sentence.   The group paused, then moved to the next question.  Misuse of a proposition, a missing article, and another run on.  Another pause.  “James, I’m sorry to tell you this, but we are only here to discuss if the answers make sense,” a veteran in the program smiled politely.  Almost daily, this was the kind of culture shock I encountered that is almost impossible to prepare for.  It’s not about homesickness or adjusting to odorous cuisine, but about more ancient values that seep into more modern systems that go unnoticed until they’re experienced.  One teacher jokingly called the EBS textbook “the bible” – “it’s a sin to edit it,” the group chuckled.  Out of 45 questions, we did end up making a handful of integral edits to the EBS text in addition to the test questions.  I learned that to change the text is viewed as insulting to someone higher up.  Even in this professional setting – where the quality of the work produced would directly impact thousands of students – the unofficial priority was to help save face.  By the end of the conference, I stood my ground on a few irreconcilable passages and do believe the team helped create a test that was passable (in both senses of the word).  I never would have anticipated, however, how large a role culture would play in the process. 


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Outside of the classroom, I’m learning more about Korean culture by stumbling through it.  Yesterday I presented gifts wrapped in towels in celebration of Chuseok (추석) and later but the head off a fried “money fish” while out drinking with my host father.  I have the choice of goldenrod yellow water infused with barley or self-boiled from my lil’ electric kettle as my choices for potable water in the house.  I’ve become a NUBIJA bikeshare regular and am constantly in denial of the fact that that I’m juuuuust a little too tall for the highest seatpoast setting.  My life is at the same time beautifully straightforward and wholly complicated.  I’m finding success in my contractual teaching duties but am required to use a significant degree of brainpower locate and purchase some purell, tape, and white out (the lifeblood and currency of my school.) 

My freshman year of college, I made sure to take advantage of at least free consortium lectures a week.  I wrote my college essays about how I would digest several documentaries on various topics a week.  I’ve got a genuine appreciation for learning (for the sake of learning).  It used to be something I felt that I needed to seek out.  Here it’s unavoidable.  Every day’s a new set of lessons, new course material.  Although I’m a teacher 5 days a week, I feel more like a student every day.

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